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THE DRUMS (FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS)

  • TYPES OF SKINS AND QUALITIES.
    Being a natural product, there will always be variations between drum skins. The most important thing is the integrity of the skin. High quality, consistent thickness (no belly skin) and no major flaws.
  • HAIR AROUND THE RIM.
    The hair left around the rim does suppress overtones but also makes your drum into a piece of art as well as a high quality instrument.
  • DOUBLE SKINNED BODHRÁNS.
    These were introduced to extend the range of my bodhráns. They have a more mellow sound but still retain the full range of notes.
  • OVERTONE SUPPRESSION.
    On the Hairy Beastie Bodhráns the hair acts to suppress overtones but the main work is done with a band of soft hide between the tension ring (black) and the skin.
  • TUNING METHOD.
    Other methods were considered but internal tuning by the use of eight thumbscrews was decided to be the best. No tools are required and eight gives even pressure on the tension ring.
  • KINDRED DRUMS.
    Consists of me (Mike Maddock) and my wife Cheryl. So the two of us see everything that is made and are responsible for the quality of our drums. Kindred Drums was formed about thirteen years ago and Mike enjoyed the challenge of making quality drums for both meditation and serious Bodhrán playing.
  • THE MAKING OF BEASTIE BODHRÁNS.
    Any drum must start with a high quality frame and Mikes Bodhráns have that. The Tasmanian Huon Pine used is widely accepted as a superb timber for musical instruments. The twenty four segments that make up the frame are all solid timber. Each joint is enhanced with the insertion of two plywood biscuits. I dont believe the additional strength the biscuits add, is required but they look good so I'll keep putting them in. The internal tension ring is circular to ensure there are no tonal variations across the skin. The skins I use are predominantly Goat but the way they are cured to make them into a Bodhrán skin is important.
  • WHERE ARE KINDRED DRUMS MADE.
    The workshop in which Mike and Cheryl make their drums is on their small cliff-top property overlooking Red Ochre Beach in South Eastern Tasmania.
  • PLAYING IN THE DRUM HEAD (THE SKIN).
    When your drum is new the skin may seem a little tight or hard but after playing for a while the oil from your hands and the flexing of the skin will soften it a little. All drums need playing in to some degree.
  • MAINTENANCE OF YOUR DRUM.
    The main thing you can do is play it. If you live where there are big variations in humidity and temperature it is best to detune (slacken off the skin) a little in extreme conditions to prevent overstretching the skin. I would recommend an occasional application of a small amount of lanolin or neetsfoot oil to assist with the suppleness of your skin.
  • HOW TO START PLAYING.
    If you intend to be a serious Bodhrán player you will most likely end up with a high quality, tunable Bodhrán. But to start with buy a reasonable tipper (playing stick) and practice on a cardboard box. The small amount of flex in the cardboard simulates the skin of a Bodhrán. Also get yourself a DVD or tape to start learning of the many techniques used to play a Bodhrán. Then find yourself a teacher to learn the correct techniques early.
  • WHAT SORT OF DRUM TO BUY.
    First find out what qualities you want in a Bodhrán, they vary enormously. The style that you play and the range of notes required will determine what you buy. Also decide if you want one or two cross-bars (or maybe none). You may need a cut-out so that your hand can have complete movement on the back of the skin.
  • ONE CROSS-BAR, TWO CROSS-BARS OR NONE."
    Cross-bars were originally there to give strength to the frame. They are unnecessary (at least for strength) in a Beastie Bodhrán but can be added at your request.
  • CUT-OUT OR RECESS.
    My Bodhráns are 130mm deep (the frame is 120mm) and so will accommodate most players.
  • TIPPERS.
    I have a variety of my own design but if you tell me what you want, I can make it for you. Double or single ended, weighted, padded and with various grips. I make them in Tasmanian Blackwood or make an adjustable brush type tipper using bamboo rods secured with a non-slip ridged handle.

© Mike Maddock

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